Postcard from Armenia

Published in Sommelier India Spring 2025

Discover excellent wines, just a stone’s throw away from India (as the crow flies)

 

We’ve all heard about the excellent wines of Georgia — Georgia the country, not Georgia of US election fame! Georgian wine has been ‘discovered’ and written about for a while now, including in previous issues of Sommelier India. Wine from its neighbouring country Armenia, however, remains not so well-known and is yet to be ‘discovered’, although I learned that winemaking has existed in Armenian monasteries for centuries.

So, on a recent tour to Armenia apart from churches and monasteries with my former colleagues, a visit to a winery was on the agenda. A welcome surprise!

 

We visited the Old Bridge Winery in the wine-growing region of Yeghegnadzor. It is located on the right bank of the Arpa River, at an altitude of 1,250–1,300 metres above sea level. Due to varying elevations and geographical conditions, the grapes ripen at different times and the harvest takes place over a period of 20–25 days, from

late September to October. We arrived just as the harvest had been completed! 

A beaming Musho, proud of his prize-winning family vineyard.
A beaming Musho, proud of his prize-winning family vineyard.

The vineyard cultivates the domestic Areni grape, with a high quality wine yeast from Denmark used for fermentation. We tasted the 2021 Old Bridge Areni Noir Reserve, 14% alcohol, an excellent red, fermented in Armenian oak barrels for two years. Well balanced, with velvety notes of oak, sour cherry and spices, it pairs well with red meats and Armenian barbecues, as explained by Musho Khalatyan, the son of the owner and winemaker, Armen Khalatyan. A possible pairing of lightly spiced rogan josh or Indian vegetarian dishes also came to my mind!

The Flagship 2021 Reserve. Web: www.oldbridgewinery.com
The Flagship 2021 Reserve. Web: www.oldbridgewinery.com

Musho proudly described the small, family-owned vineyard, established about 20 years ago, which is doing well due to the hard work of each family member, each with their own specific responsibilities. Over the years, the winery has avoided taking loans, wary of political and other factors that could impact wine production in Armenia. Their focus is on smallscale, high-quality production, steering clear of turning it into a large, purely corporate undertaking. An approach that has paid off, with the winery winning, both, silver and gold medals! Eighty per cent of the production is exported, mainly to the US market, where there is a great demand for Armenian wine from the diaspora.

 

When asked about neighbouring Georgian wines, we were told they are likely to be superior, having more experience and a much longer history of wine production. Armenia, I’m informed, is ready to learn from its neighbour, rather than be in competition. I view this as typical Armenian modesty! Old Bridge is already competing with the best in the region — and winning gold and silver medals to boot!

 

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